After a relaxing stay in Cahuita, we made our way to Tortuguero. Tortuguero is the main nesting area for green sea turtles in the Caribbean. The best time to witness the nesting is between July and October. This portion of the trip was inspired by a Reading Rainbow episode I saw as a child, where Levar watches baby turtles hatching and making their way to the ocean. As such, it was the highlight of the trip for me. We saw more wildlife here than anywhere else we visited, but you don’t have to take my word for it. ;)

Getting There

There are no roads to Tortuguero. It is only accessible via boat or plane. If you arrange a package tour with one of the lodges in the area, transportation will probably be included, but it is also possible to travel to Tortuguero independently.

We had arranged a 3 day, 2 night tour to Tortuguero with the excellent Riverboat Francesca Tours, operated by Fran and Modesto Watson. Their tour includes transportation from San Jose, but since we were coming from Cahuita, we had to join them at the dock in Moin. We took a 6:30am bus to Limon, where it is easy to catch a taxi to get the rest of the way.

Tip: This bus route includes a stop at the transit control center, where you may have to show your passport. The people who get off the bus here are probably just grabbing something to eat and will expect their seat to be there when they reboard.

The boat ride through the canals is about 3 hours long, but with all the wildlife to see, time goes by quickly. We were in awe of how our guide, Modesto, was able to spot so many animals — birds, monkeys, sloths — all while the boat was in motion.

Where to Stay

We took the option of staying at Casa Marbella, a nice B&B in Tortuguero village. We loved our stay here, especially the peaceful breakfast on the back deck — a perfect way to start a day of exploration. We met other tourists in the village who were envious of where we were staying.

Another great thing about staying in the village is that you are within walking distance to some great restaurants. Some of the fancier lodges and hotels in the area are only accessible by boat, so you're kind of stuck with their meal plans. We had a tasty vegetarian lunch at Miss Miriam’s and a sublime snapper dinner at Miss Junie’s.

A Childhood Dream Fulfilled

We were told that if we just took a walk down the beach at around 4pm, we would see turtle hatchlings. Somehow I didn’t believe it would be that easy. We looked for about 15 minutes before we saw a little hole opening up in the ground. Before we knew it, there were baby turtles flapping their way out of the hole and racing towards the ocean. We followed them down to the water and just tried to stay out of their way. After only a few minutes, they had all disappeared into the ocean.

In the evening, you can see turtles coming ashore and laying their eggs. You will need a guide to enter the national park at night. We saw three different turtles: one just coming ashore, one in the process of laying her eggs, and one making her way back to the ocean.

Tip: There could be quite a long walk in the sand before you see a turtle, so we suggest wearing good sneakers instead of flip-flops.

Tortuguero National Park

If you have more time to explore on your own, you can hike a short trail into the national park at the south end of the village. There is a lot to see if you tread quietly and look carefully. We were able to get so close to howler monkeys on this trail that I was afraid they’d start flinging things. Also, don’t miss the collection of all manner of preserved animals at the trailhead.

This trail is in true rainforest and one place you'll really want to use your insect repellent. Otherwise, you will have a swarm of mosquitos following you around.

Our visit to Parque Nacional Tortuguero was truly unforgettable. When it was over, our tour included a worry-free ride back to San Jose. »